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Monday, October 10, 2011

Suri

Non-cluster pastoralists in attendance were the Suri, famous for the women who put saucers in their lips, the Murci, whose men, like the Suri, fight with long poles, the Bunna and some special guests from the Maasai. It was an unexpected pleasure to see several troops of tourists (not unlike a troop
of baboons) drive through while we were there to see this "human zoo" in all its wilderness nativity. Not really. I gotta say, though, the plates in the lips were a little off-putting, perhaps as much as the eating with open mouths and generous (!) bodily scarification. Still, we learned a good bit about pastoralists by seeing them all together and listening to everyone's stories. We met at Tulgit, found only on certain National Geographic maps of south-east Ethiopia, near the Sudan border, and accessible by weeks of walking, or two-plus days of four-wheeling or several hours by helicopter.
We chose "Door #3"!! Whooo-Hooo - never been in a helicopter before (though I have a brother who's been in a helicopter crash; does that count?) so it was going to be memorable no matter what. Thankfully, it wasn't as memorable as my brother's experience.

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